GreenCellarDoor

Friday, October 10, 8:10 p.m.

Yesterday was not a great day for me. It was when my cold had me feeling the worst and I was having a lot of lower back pain from all the walking. We began the day at Nijo Castle, which was really neat. But it wasn’t long before I just wasn’t having it anymore. After some wrong-way train travel, we eventually ended up at our next accommodation: Shunko-in Temple.

This place is the bomb. I was feeling so bad yesterday that I couldn’t enjoy it at first, but now I am so happy we’re here and I want to move in for good. We are staying in a guest room on the grounds of a Zen Buddhist temple. SO COOL. The vice-abbot, Taka, went to school at Rice and ASU so his English is great. This morning, we started the day with a meditation class, taught by Taka. There were four of us in the class. The other couple were a pair of post-doc immunologists, originally from Spain, working in Amsterdam. They were nice. The lady thought we were artist types and was surprised when she learned our actual occupations.

I probably don’t need to say this, but meditating in a Zen Buddhist temple is one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had. The room had rice paper walls and tatami mat floors. It was really cool inside despite the warmth outside. I had a view out into a beautiful garden. Birds chirping, serenity, ahhh. After meditation time, Taka led us on a tour of the temple, which was amazing. Kano school screen paintings (originals!), the first Christian bell made in Japan, pretty gardens, etc. The temple is really interesting because it combines Buddhist symbols with Shinto symbols, and also was a haven for Christians during the Edo period, when Japanese Christians were persecuted. The temple monks were very open-minded at the time, and still today, multiple religions coexist peacefully in Japanese culture. We later had a conversation with Taka. He’s just a really cool guy. We talked about politics (Japanese and American) and he told us about how he was once under US government surveillance because he had Arab friends while living in the US.

So anyway, after meditiation we biked all around with bikes the temple loans out to visitors for free. It was so great! We biked around, stopped for coffee, biked more, stopped for lunch, biked more, stopped for dessert. At the first place, the owner lady kept giving us Halloween candy. Someone’s got a sweet tooth! We also biked to a department store called LIFE. I stopped in to replenish my tissue supply (darn cold), but I walked out with MORE BENTO JUNK. I’ve been buying bento shit nonstop. It’s great. I <3 bento shit. Oh, also I <3 Kyoto. I’m going to get a shirt made that says so.

So now we are back in the room drinking biru. It’s Sapporo, which tastes just like Asahi and Kirin to me.

General cultural note re: Toilets

Toilets in Japan represent extreme ends of the toilet technology spectrum. Everywhere we have stayed, including this temple, has these very advanced toilets with lots of buttons for seat-warming, bidet, “flushing noise,” (ostensibly to cover up pooping noises without wasting water), and other stuff, probably, which I can’t decipher. Despite the frequent and vehement praise of the bidet feature by Jay, I haven’t been able to bring myself to try it out. Something about water coming out of the toilet to wash my butt gives me the heebie-jeebies.

But in public, toilets are a different story. Japanese-style “squat” toilets are what to expect most of the time. I’d used these before in Taiwan, but man, they are an experience. You really get intimate with your body’s byproducts when you are squatting like that. Sure, the argument can be made that it’s more sanitary because your ass doesn’t touch the seat, but every time I use one I feel like I am on the verge of a disastrous slip or loss of balance. Blech.

[Ed. note: This is where my journaling ended, despite having a couple more days of vacation left. Too bad for you!]

Thursday, October 9, 7:45 a.m.

I haven’t written in 2 days because I got sick. I caught Jay’s sick and I am still sick now. We had more awesome food at our ryokan. We tried to go on The Philosopher’s Walk but we ended up taking a detour on The Awesome Walk, so named because it is awesome, and we decided it was way better than The Philosopher’s Walk anyway.

Same day, 8:27 a.m.

We came to another ryokan and just had another traditional Japanese brekky-fast. We had some terrible Chinese food for dinner last night. [Ed. note: It was one of the only places open that night, and we later learned that it was a national holiday. Yeah, we didn’t really do our research before we took this trip.] Afterwards we spotted a geisha or maiko about to cross the street. We also found an awesome shop where we did more shopping! I <3 shopping. Yesterday we also went to Nara to see a giant buddha and some tame deer in Nara park. I bought “Deer Foodies” and I got swarmed. One little jerk of a deer bit me on the belly! Now I have a bruise, and possibly rabies.

Tuesday, October 7, 9:00 a.m.

We just had a traditional Japanese breakfast at our ryokan. Again, the variety and amount of food was amazing.

• Omelet
• Tofu and wheat gluten flower
• Salmon
• Miso soup
• Noodles and mushrooms
• Pickles (3 kinds)
• Vinegared veggies
• Orange
• Rice
• Hojicha tea

Anyone who has not stayed in a Kyoto ryokan needs to get their ass to Kyoto to stay in a ryokan, STAT.

Also, if you’re into design at all, you should go to Kyoto. Kyoto style is very clean and simple and just good design.

Same day , 12:00 p.m.

We just got back from shopping all over our neighborhood in Kyoto. I got so many more pretty things. We also went to Nishiki Market, which was really cool. Lots of pickles and wheat gluten and wagashi shaped into pretty things. There were little schoolchildren on a scavenger hunt. They traveled in groups and stopped to talk with the shopkeepers to answer questions on their papers/clipboards. Jay thinks Kyoto is his favorite city in the whole world (so far). I think I need to see more of the city first, but so far, I don’t disagree.

Monday, October 6, 7:00 p.m.

I love Kyoto. I love Kyoto. I love Kyoto. I don’t even know where to start. We just had the most amazing kaiseki meal in our ryokan.

• Appetizer of shrimp, squid or octopus, bean paste thing, wheat gluten thing, and something that resembled an olive
• Shabu-shabu with kobe beef (omg!), mushrooms, scallions, other green stuff
• Sashimi tuna and something white that I didn’t like [Ed. note: I think it may have been cuttlefish or squid. It was a texture thing.]
• Grilled fish
• Vinegared cucumber and octupus salad
• Clear soup, rice, pickles
• Tempura shrimp
• Baked crab with some creamy stuff (butter?)
• Fruit
• Sake & green tea

We are so stuffed. The hostess just kept coming in the room with more and more food. It was unreal. I felt like I was dreaming, or a princess. Jay and I are both experiencing food comas.

Before dinner, we explored the neighborhood, which is full of cute stores for shopping-shopping. Shopping in Kyoto is much more pleasant and accessible than it is in Tokyo. Kyoto is definitely more my speed. I <3 Kyoto!

To bring you a special announcement:

Do you like reading Patti’s Japan Travel Journal? Well, then, you’ll LOVE gazing in wonderment at the accompanying photoset! Words and images, together at last! (Now available through Day 2. Updates are being added periodically. Check back often.)

Drinking your milkshake since 2008,

Pattipants

xoxo!

Sunday, October 5, 11:45 a.m.

Hoo, we slept LATE today! Until 10:00 a.m. After not being able to sleep past 6:00 up til now, I think we finally beat “the lag.”

Same day, 4:45 p.m.

Anyways, last night we went to Bar Ice, which is a swank tiny bar near the hotel. They were very dedicated to mixing each drink perfectly there. Tokyans take a lot of pride in their work. [Ed. note: I remember really liking the ice cubes there, too.]

Before Bar Ice, we tried to see crazy people in Harajuku, but I think maybe it was too late in the day and the crazy train had left the station? [Ed. note: Yes. You have to go on Sunday afternoon, NOT Saturday night.] So I consoled myself by spending a bunch of money on clothes. I scored a totally saweeeet leather jacket that I can’t wear because it’s too hot in Japan. [Ed. note: Speaking of which, 86 degrees in mid-October in Atlanta? Come ON already!]. Not that anyone here realizes how hot it is, given the abundance of people wearing sweaters and winter hats (wtf Japan?).

Today was Akihabara aka “Electric Town” aka “crazy town,” where Tokyo’s male youth goes to load up on electronics, arcade games, and generally cream their collective pants. We had some really good ramen.

Jay woke up sick today :(.

Same day, 8:15 p.m.

I can’t decide if Tokyo is organized chaos or chaotic organization. Either way, this city is simultaneously crazy town, and the town that has it all figured out. We zipped down to Shibuya to see the statue of Hachiko the dog [Ed. note: What a good dog!] and to cross the street at the busiest pedestrian intersection in the universe. Shibuya is crazy, but fun. I love Tokyo, but I’m really glad we’re moving on to Kyoto tomorrow. I’m ready to see a place where clothing costs less than a bajillion yen, and women don’t wear stilettoes to the zoo.

And seriously, you Tokyoans need to just get the fuck out of my way [Ed. note: That shit gets old quick, you know?].

Saturday, October 4, 7:00 p.m.

Well, I haven’t updated in a while because I’ve been having TOO MUCH FUN! I think today has been my favorite day in Tokyo. We went to Asakusa to visit Senso-Ji Temple. Okay, really we just wanted to shop at the market stalls that line the street leading to Senso-Ji, but it turns out that the temple was really impressive. Lunch was at an udon shop and was tasty x 1 million [Ed. note: I’ve checked my calculations and it’s true.]. I bought some pretty things and then we headed back to our Shinjuku home base. After naptime, we visited the spa in our hotel. I had 30 minutes of “foot care” which was kind of like a pedicure without the polish. Jay had 30 minutes of reflexology, which sounded really interesting from the way he described it.

And then, we just got back from sushi dinner! It was at a Kaiten-sushi place (conveyor belt sushi) which was SO COOL and FUN! We chomped it up. It cost around $30 for both of us, for REALLY GOOD sushi. Now we are having a little more down time in our room before we hit up Harajuku for some Fun Time people watching. I’m scared! I hope I don’t see Gwen Stefani.

Now for the downer news. When we went to “Old Tokyo” (Ueno & Asakusa), I was expecting it to be…older. Turns out, the US bombed the shit out of Tokyo during WWII and only 1/10th of the old buildings survived. So, most of the buildings have only been around since the 1950’s or so. That’s some sad shit.

Friday, October 3, 5:30 p.m.

Things I can no longer eat in America

• Sushi

Every piece of sushi I’ve had in the US has been pure garbage. Today I spent 500 Yen (~$5) on a bowl of rice topped with the most exquisite raw salmon, ever, at a freaking street stall at an outdoor market (Ameyoko). MF Sushibar can suck it. From now on, I will only be eating sushi in Japan.

Whenever we visit a new place, we like to ask ourselves the purely hypothetical question: “Could we live here?” In Tokyo I feel like a buffoon who can’t stop getting in people’s way. I haven’t learned to walk properly in Tokyo [Ed. note: By the end of the trip I stopped caring that I was bumping into people constantly in Tokyo and eventually just started shoving back.]. Also, I think I wear a size Large here. Also, Tokyo women have the market cornered on cuteness, and I don’t even register on the scale. That’s always been my thing, you know? I think I’ll stick with dwelling stateside. But I do want to steal a bicycle. All the bikes here are these totally rad retro-looking cruisers with baskets and shit. ME WANT. Not sure how they’d ride on Atlanta hills, though.

We went to the zoo in Ueno Park today. It was a totally unplanned excursion that took up most of the day, but that zoo is pretty great. My favorite animal was the Lesser Mouse Deer. I had never seen that freaky animal before. Also, I heard the Japanese word for “cute” (kawaii) about a billion times. Japanese women, I tell you!

One very nice thing about Japan is that it is Patti-size. I can actually reach the overhead hanging grip things on the train. And let me tell you about the trains. Hoo boy, Japan has got it all figured out. For shame, anywhere that is not Japan!

I like eating mochi.

Same day, 9:42 p.m.

We just got back from Karaoke-Kan where we did…karaoke!

My songs:

• Hazy Shade of Winter - The Bangles
• Don’t Look Back in Anger - Oasis
• Jamie - Weezer
• I Love Rock & Roll - Joan Jett
• Against All Odds - Phil Collins

People stand out on the street to hand shit out for free 24/7 in Tokyo. So far the only thing we’ve accepted was a sample of Lipton “extra shot” tea in a can. I think the extra “shot” is milk. [Ed. note: I later accepted tissue packs from anyone handing them out. They come in super-handy when you end up getting sick in Japan. More on that later.]

(Day 1 was spent mostly in transit).

Thursday, October 2. 7:00 a.m.

Well, Tokyo is amazing. Our first meal here was at a tiny noodle bar. There is a vending machine where you put in your money and press the button of what you want and it gives you change and a ticket. Give the ticket to the counter guy and he makes you noodles. Wow!

Vending machines are ubiquitous. I had Black BOSS coffee out of a can from one. Tommy Lee Jones said it was OK.

So I was unfortunately Srta. Crankypants after being awake for 24 hours and after noodles and Black Boss I passed out around 7 p.m. last night. Then I had crazy dreams that made me wonder about Tommy Lee Jones’ endorsements…[Ed. note: I don’t remember these dreams].

Same day, 3:20 p.m.

We went to Tsukiji Fish Market today and walked around Ginza. The fish market was incredible and HUGE. There were enormous fish and tiny fish, enormous clams and tiny clams. Octopus, squid, and fish and crabs and fish! We had sushi at a tiny restaurant just outside the market. It was very tasty. And we had whale! Shh…don’t tell.

Ginza was a lot of high-end shopping that we couldn’t afford. Japanese people are very stylish in general. I feel like Frumpy McFrumperson here. Everybody looks good in their clothes and nobody is overweight. The women are all my size or tinier. It’s a shame I can’t afford to shop because the clothes would probably fit me really well here. Every section is Petites!

Also, it’s warm here (60s & 70s F), yet everyone is wearing jackets and sweaters. What gives? They don’t even look like they’re sweating.

Also, the bicycles are really cool here.

Today, somebody said “Buenos dias” to Jay because he thought we were Spanish.

Same day, 7:35 p.m.

Four-hour nap! Whoops.

We are in search of:

• Dinner
• Bar
• Karaoke

Early the next morning, 2:40 a.m.

We found dinner (Indian food) and (tiny) bars. But no karaoke. At least, we found karaoke but not sure if they had American tunes or not. Didn’t want to risk $16 to find out [Ed. note: We later learned the charge is per person, so it would have cost us $32]. I’ve decided our “thing” is to try the Indian food in different countries. Verdict: the Indian food in Tokyo is not as good as it is in Prague.

Tokyo is crazy and overwhelming. Our sleep schedule is all kinds of messed up. Whatever. Tomorrow I hope to shop and buy more stuff this time. We’re gonna do Old Tokyo and maybe Uniqlo near the tiny bars if there’s time [Ed. note: There wasn’t.].

All the 18-25-year-old men here look like they are in rock bands.

We had beer at a wine bar (doh!) and shochu at a bar bar. With racist art! At bar #2 we were the only patrons after 3 boisterous businessmen took their leave. The shy bartender made a valiant effort to communicate with us, but her English was spotty and our Japanese nearly nonexistent. We talked about Halloween.

AND we saw 2 Japanese trannies.